Finger Tendon Pulley Injury
Considering the incredible mechanical loading we place on our fingers when climbing, it should be no surprise that they are a most common site of injury. Unfortunately, these pesky finger injuries are...
View ArticleOverview of Elbow Tendon Injuries
Pain near the bony medial (inside) or lateral (outside) epicondyles of the elbow is an exceedingly common ailment among serious climbers. In most cases the onset of pain is very gradual as a schedule...
View Article5 Tips for Reducing Injury Risk
If you climb long or hard enough, chances are you will experience one or more of the “big three” climbing injuries: a finger tendon pulley tear or rupture, elbow tendonitis, or shoulder subluxation...
View ArticleRotator Cuff Training & Rehab
The shoulders are the most movable and unstable joints, and next to the fingers they are the most at-risk body parts for rock climbers. In particular, those of us with a preference for overhanging...
View ArticleSupplemental Training to Reduce Injury Risk
While climbing provides a rigorous workout for the pull muscles, it demands much less of the antagonist push muscles of the chest, shoulders, and upper arms. In the long term this could lead to...
View ArticleLumbrical Muscle Injury and Training Tips for Climbers
The lumbricals are a family of muscles that all climbers use, but perhaps have never heard of. If you aspire to climb hard—or already do!—then some knowledge of lumbrical function, training, injury...
View ArticleTreating “Climber’s Elbow” (Medial Epicondylitis)
Pain near the medial epicondyle is commonly called “golfer’s elbow” or climber’s elbow. Pain develops in the tendons connecting the pronator teres muscle and/or the many forearm flexor muscles...
View ArticlePodcast – Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
Get ready for some exciting research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers! The topic is sinew training—that is, new training and nutritional interventions...
View ArticlePodcast – Nutrition to Amplify Finger Training and Increase Tendon Health
This may be the most important podcast you’ve heard in a long time…or, perhaps, ever! If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon...
View Article“Prehab” Finger Training You Can Do Each Day
Climbing is hard on the fingers. If you climb/train frequently at a rigorous level, then there’s a good chance you’ve experienced finger pain and perhaps even injury. Obviously, then, it would be smart...
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